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“নৌকার মাঝি একটা গাছের কিনারায় থামলো। ইশারায় বললাম ভাই আমরা গাছে উঠতে চাই না। জবাব এলো না। দেখলাম গাছের দিকে হাত বাড়াচ্ছেন তিনি। একখানা চিপসের প্যাকেট সযত্নে তুলে নিলো নৌকায়। এভাবে তিনটি।”

ratargul swamp2

 

ঢাকা:  নিজের চোখে না দেখলে বিশ্বাসই হতো না। নৌকার সাধারণ এক মাঝিও আমার-আপনার চেয়ে শতগুন সচেতন। আমরা কেবল সভ্যতা-আধুনিকতার লেবাসটুকুই গায়ে চড়াতে জানি। অসভ্যতার ভেতরের রূপটা বদলায়নি এতোটুকুও।

একটু বেশি শক্ত হয়ে গেলো কি? বোধহয় না। আরো কটু করে বলা উচিত। পারছি না শুধু ঐ লেবাসটুকুর কারণে।  মূল প্রসঙ্গে আসি। সিলেটের জিন্দাবাজার পয়েন্ট। নামি-দামি সব ব্র্যান্ডের দোকান। উঁচু উঁচু দালান। বেশ ব্যয়বহুল শহর। এখান থেকে চল্লিশ কি পয়তাল্লিশ মিনিটের রাস্তা মোটরঘাট। নেমেই চক্ষু ছানাবড়া। রাতারগুল দেখতে এতো মানুষ। কম করে হলেও হাজারখানেক মানুষ। এই ঘাট থেকেই কোষা নৌকা নিয়ে ঢুকতে হয় বনে। কিন্তু দেখলাম এই যজ্ঞ নৌকা বাইচের জন্য তখন হাফ ছেড়ে বাঁচলাম। বনটা অন্তত শান্তিতে ঘোরা যাবে। দলে আমরা সাতজন। সাথে আছেন এক বড় ভাই, পথ প্রদর্শক আশরাফ ভাই। দুই নৌকা চড়ে বেশ অ্যাডভেঞ্চারাস মুডে রওনা করলাম। যতোই যাই চোখ ততোই সবুজ থেকেত সবুজতর হয়ে ওঠে। প্রকৃতির কি বিস্ময়? শুনেছিলাম রাতারগুলের গাছে সাপ ঝুলে থাকে। বানর লাফায় হামেশাই। জলজ প্রাণীও আছে বেশ। কিন্তু সৌন্দর্যের কাছে ভয় যেন অসহায় আত্মসমর্পণ করলো।

কিন্তু একটু পরপরই সেই মুগ্ধতা রনে ভঙ্গ দেয়। কিসের যেনো অভাব। ঠিক মেলাতে পারছিলাম না। মিনিট বিশেক পরেই আমরা বনের একদম ভেতরে একটা জায়গায়। নৌকা থামিয়ে দিলাম। চারদিক সুনসান। শত-সহস্র হিজল-করচ গাছের মাঝে আমরা। তখন অবশ্য আমরা থেকে আমি হয়ে গিয়েছিলাম। সবাই আছি, কিন্তু কারো সাথে কোনো কথা নেই। কেবল গুটিকয়েক পাখির কিচির-মিচির। নির্জনতা যে এতোটা উপভোগ্য তা বলে বোঝানো দায়। হঠাৎ করেই শুনি চিৎকার। না, কেউ বিপদে পড়েনি। আসলে চিৎকার নয়, হৈ হুল্লোর। নৌকাটা এগিয়ে যেতে বললাম। একটা নৌকায় শুধু মাঝি। “সম্মানীয়” পর্যটকেরা গাছে উঠে ছবি তুলছে। পরম আনন্দে গাছ ঝাকাচ্ছে। তখনই মনে পড়লো, গাছে না সাপ-বাঁদর থাকে। কাউকে জিজ্ঞেস করতে হলো না। এমন অত্যাচার পেলে সাপ-বাঁদরতো যাবেই। হাঁটতে পারলে ঐ হিজল-করচও বোধহয় জান বাঁচিয়ে পালাতো।

দোপেয়ে বাঁদরদের অত্যাচারে আসল বাঁদরেরা হয়তো আপাত নিরাপদ নিবাস খুঁজে নিয়েছে। সৃষ্টির সেরা জীবের কাছ থেকে দূরে থাকলেই বোধহয় নিরাপদ থাকে। আর সাপ বোধহয় শীতনিদ্রায়।

প্রথমে ভয়টা সৌন্দর্যের কাছে আত্মসমর্পণ করেছিলো বটে। কিন্তু এবার মনে হচ্ছে বনের প্রাণ-প্রকৃতি সভ্যতার কাছে করজোরে মিনতি করছে। নৌকার মাঝি একটা গাছের কিনারায় থামলো। ইশারায় বললাম ভাই আমরা গাছে উঠতে চাই না। জবাব এলো না। দেখলাম গাছের দিকে হাত বাড়াচ্ছেন তিনি। একখানা চিপসের প্যাকেট সযত্নে তুলে নিলো নৌকায়। এভাবে তিনটি। মাঝির কাছেই বসেছিলাম বলে তার দীর্ঘশ্বাস টের পাচ্ছিলাম। সভ্যতার প্রতি, মাননীয় পর্যটকদের প্রতি একধরণের নির্বাক ধিক্কার। সাহস করেই জিজ্ঞেস করলাম। কি হতো এটা এখানে পড়ে থাকলে? মুখ বাঁকিয়ে উত্তর এলো, “আপনি কি বুঝবেন? দুইদিন পর যাইবেন গা। আমারতো এই জলের উপরেই জীবন।” তাইতো। আমি কি বুঝবো? এই মাঝিরা, এই গ্রামের মানুষরাইতো এতোদিন ধরে আগলে রেখেছে রাতারগুলকে। জলের ওপর যাদের জীবন। তবু সভ্যতার অসভ্যতার শক্তির সাথে তারা বেশ দুর্বল বটে।

৫০৪.৫ এক জায়গার ওপর এই জলাবন রাতারগুলকে সংরক্ষিত ঘোষণা করা হয় ১৯৭৩ সালে। এতোদিন ভালোই ছিলো। কিন্তু সংবাদ মাধ্যমে এই জায়গার খবর বেরুনোর পরই ঢল নামতে থাকে পর্যটকের। তাও বছর দুয়েকের বেশি নয়। এই দুই বছরের অত্যাচারে রূপ হারাতে শুরু করেছে রাতারগুল। দল বেধে হই হুল্লা আর দোপেয়ে বাঁদরদের উৎপাতে সত্যিকার বাদররা চলে গেছে গভীর জঙ্গলে। হাভাতে পর্যটকদের ফেলে যাওয়া চিপসের প্যাকেট, আর সিগারেটের ফিল্টারেরও বড় গুদাম হতো রাতারগুল, যদি ঐ নিরক্ষর আধুনিকতা থেকে দূরে থাকা মাঝিরা সেখানে থাকতেন।

সম্প্রতি পর্যটকের ভিড় বাড়ার পর স্থানীয় বন বিভাগ ৫কোটি ৬১ লাখ টাকার একটি উন্নয়ন প্রকল্প জমা দিয়েছে মন্ত্রণালয়ে। যার মধ্যে সোয়া চার কোটি টাকা ব্যয় হবে পূর্ত খাতে আর বাকিটা বনায়ন। আছে লেক-রিসোর্টের পরিকল্পনা। কিন্তু বছর দুয়েক আগেও এক সাংবাদিকের প্রশ্ন শুনে পাল্টা প্রশ্ন করেছিলেন সেখানকার বনের রাজা(ফরেস্ট অফিসার), “রাতারগুলটা যেনো কোথায়?” সেই রাজাই দুই বছরে বিশাল উন্নয়নের পরিকল্পনা সেরে ফেলেছেন। জলাবনের জলে ভাসবে কংক্রিটের দালান। পর্যটকদের নিরাপত্তায় থাকবে কার্বলিক এসিড। সাপেদের শীত নিদ্রাও বোধহয় শেষের পথে। আর ইতিহাস বলে বন বিভাগের বনায়ন মানে ইউক্যালিপটাস, আকাশী আর মেহগনির জঞ্জাল। জলাবনকে হবে জলাউদ্যান। জলটুকুও সিমেন্টের পাড় পেয়ে রাতারাতি বনে যাবে লেক। বাহ কি চমৎকার। আরেকিটি পর্যটন কেন্দ্র। কর্পোরেটিজমের আরেক নতুন অধ্যায়। এই উন্নয়ন প্রকল্প পাস না করা জন্য “অশিক্ষিত” গ্রামবাসী আর কিছু শিক্ষিত তরুণ প্রশাসনের কাছে স্মারকলিপিও দিয়েছে।

শুরুতে যে নৌকা বাইচের কথা বলেছিলাম। পরে জেনেছি সেটাও জলাবনের দখলদারিত্ব কায়েমের প্রচেষ্টার একটি অংশ। সিলেটের সভ্য সমাজে থাকা একজন মানুষ দেখেছি। যিনি বলতে গেলে একাই প্রাণপন লড়ে চলেছেন রাতারগুল ধ্বংসের বিরুদ্ধে। তিনি পেরেছেন গায়ে থাকা সভ্যতার লেবাস খুলে ফেলতে। প্রশ্ন হলো এখন কি তিনি সভ্য না-কি অসভ্য? এই মানুষটির গল্প না হয় আরেকদিনের জন্য তোলা থাক।

রাতারগুলের গাছ-পাখি-প্রাণীরা যদি কথা বলতে পারতো, তারা নিশ্চিতভাবে এখন অবিরত চিৎকার করতো, “ফিরিয়ে দাও সে অরণ্য, লও এ নগর”।

 

Nahid

নাহিদ হোসেন

বিনোদন সাংবাদিক, চ্যানেল ২৪

 

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